ASK MR BIKE
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The following shows questions others have asked.
BRAKES & STOPPING (NON-MAINTENANCE)
BUYING
& SELLING BIKES
CARRYING STUFF
CLOTHING
CRASHES & MOTORIST INCIDENTS
DRIVE TRAINS & WHEELS
FITTING A BIKE
GADGETS
HOW TO BICYCLE
KIDS
LOCKS, THEFT, & PARKING
MAINTENANCE & REPAIR
NON-STANDARD CYCLES
SEATS
VISIBILITY
WHERE TO BICYCLE
WORKING IN BICYCLING
Clarification on recumbents
July 14, 2004
I have just begun your book for urban bikers and,
as a Manhattanite who rides in traffic daily to commute and run errands, I am
altogether amazed at all the information you have packed into one book. I am
heartened to finally find a book that actually addresses all the real difficulties
of riding in a congested city. I can’t thank you enough for sharing your
savvy with the rest of us.
However,
your brief mention of recumbents may not do them justice. Some compact long
wheelbase recumbents, such as the Rans Tailwind that I ride in traffic, work
so well that I think you may want to reconsider the complaints you have against
them. I see very well. The bike is not too low to see or be seen. My short wheelbase
Rans V Rex actually seats me so high that its riding position is nearly level
with that of a conventional bike. The height in traffic issue varies greatly
with each recumbent design; a potential city biker can carefully choose a recumbent
that really doesn’t compromise this very important safety issue.
On a compact
long wheelbase the wobbly front wheel issue is a minor one: this design allows
me to push the bike forward so quickly from a complete stop that I find that
I rarely experience much of a wobble at all. This particular design feels very
stable from the moment it begins to roll. This is not the case with all recumbent
designs. I would argue that the compact long wheelbase style recumbent is an
especially worthy candidate for any urban bike list.
In any case,
thanks for your terrific book! It will only make my riding more successful and
pleasurable.
Steve M.
Steve:
Thanks very much for all your kind words about my
book.
I appreciate your insights into ’bents. I hadn’t
looked at recumbents in a while, so dove back in and found the following.
A certain model of recumbent might place your eyes
higher than a certain model of upright bicycle. Regarding cycles in traffic,
however, I think you’ll find the average upright bicyclist’s eyes
at a higher level than that of the average recumbent rider’s. Also, consider
head tilt: Comparing two kinds of cycles that go fast in traffic, recumbents
and racing bikes, a rider of the latter might have their head tilted down more
than that of the recumbent rider. In this case, from a safety standpoint one
could argue that the ’bent rider has an advantage because they can look
ahead and around more easily.
The amount of starting wheel wobble also varies from
model to model, but it seems just as affected by rider height and weight. Wobble
seems to occur for most people who switch from an upright to a ’bent. For
some, it clears up depending on how well they adapt and the bike’s stability.
To get more ’bent info, a Web site I like: www.recumbents.com/home.asp.
Mr Bike
Thwarting thieves with ID; shift rattle
August 16, 2004
What is your top recommendation for ID-ing my bike
in case it gets stolen?
Also, every
time I shift down from 3rd to 2nd gear, my bike makes a rattling noise. It keeps
going until I shift all the way down to 1st. Is there something I’m doing
wrong?
Katie S.
Katie:
As far as IDing your bike: You should register it
with your local police agency. Make sure you write down the serial number for
yourself and keep it where you can find it. Also, take a photo of the bike and
keep it in the same place.
Regarding your shifting problem: First, while shifting
you should pedal but make sure that you don’t apply pressure to the pedals.
If that doesn’t help, try turning the barrel adjuster that you’ll
find at the end of the cable that goes into the shifter. Turn it a half-turn
in either direction and see if that makes a difference. If not, turn it a couple
more times. If that doesn’t work you can take your bike to your local bike
shop.
Mr Bike
What do about the Kryptonite lock vulnerability?
September 15, 2004
I own a Kryptonite Evolution 2000 U-lock.
As you know from the latest
news stories, these locks can be opened with a Bic pen. Kryptonite
claims their flat key locks will solve this problem. The company is
going to rush said locks to the market. I no longer trust this company
to secure my bike. Can you recommend or point me to other companies
that make locks that are just as good or better?
Travis M.
Travis:
First, let’s review the facts: A bunch of years
ago someone discovered a weakness in bike locks (not just Kryptonite’s)
that use cylindrical keys. In some of the locks, you can open the lock using
the body of a ball-point pen. This information, formerly a well-kept secret,
just got spread all over the Internet.
How can you tell if your lock has this weakness? The
only way to tell for sure involves trying the pen method. But some people who
try it screw up their locks, so I don’t recommend it.
So you have several options:
1. If you have a cyclindrical-key lock and have registered it with the manufacturer,
do nothing. If you bike gets stolen, the lock manufacturer’s theft agreement
might pay for the replacement cost of your bike. (Check the conditions of the
agreement.) Of course, don’t do this if you really don’t wanna lose your bike.
2. Continue to use your existing lock, but “cross lock”: Also use
a completely different locking system, such as a thick cable with a padlock,
or an armored cable (one that does not use a cylindrical key). For a
good armored cable expect to pay at least $35 US. You can find cables and such
at most bike shops.
3. If you have a cyclindrical-key lock made by Kryptonite, take advantage of Kryptonite’s
offer to upgrade your lock. For details go to
www.kryptonitelock.com
or call 800/240-0802.
Note that Kryptonite makes locks under other brand names, including KHS Ultra Cycle, Avenir, Cycle Pro,
Diamondback, and Trek.
4. Replace your existing lock with a new, reliable lock from a different manufacturer. I suggest you check
out two brands that have proved very reliable for years in Europe, now sold
in the U.S.: OnGuard (www.onguardlocks.com)
and ABUS (www.abus.com). These
don’t use cylindrical keys so thieves can’t defeat them with a pen.
You might not find these locks in your local bike shop, but you could ask the
bike shop to order them. More and more have begun to stock these brands.
You can find details on and pictures of the locks, methods,
and agreements described above in the revised edition of my book, Urban
Bikers’ Tricks & Tips.
Check back on this page for new developments in the cylindrical-key saga.
Mr Bike
October 1, 2004
My bike lock is “The Great Protector,”
a U-lock with a cylindrical key made by Bell. Can you tell me:
1. Is this lock vulnerable in the same way Kryptonite locks are?
2. If they are, do you know if Bell is providing a remedy, and how to access
it? (I can’t find anything at all referring to locks on their Web site,
so I assume they’re not making them anymore and we’re just out of
lock . . . er, luck.)
Thanks.
Giudi W.
Giudi:
The pen trick can potentially defeat all locks using
cylindrical keys. If I hear of a particular model that seems impervious I’ll
post the info on this page.
I suggest you call Bell’s customer service phone
number, 800/969-4476. Alternatively, you can contact the retailer from which
you got the lock. Either way, I’d like to know what remedy, if any, they’ll
give you.
FYI, some bike-industry manufacturers sell two levels
of products: Higher-quality products they distribute thru bike shops, and cheaper
products sold in mass-market stores like Wal-Mart and Toys-R-Us. Your lock falls
into the latter category. Manufacturers tend not to support mass-market stuff
in the same way they do the better products. (Some won’t even put the stuff
on their Web site.) So if Bell sez “tough luck” it won’t surprise
me.
But please lemme know how it turns out. Thanks.
Mr Bike
October 4, 2004
Bell customer service says “We haven’t had
reports of any trouble with our locks.” But as you say, the potential is
there. Their remedy: “If you mail your lock to us, we’ll send you a cable
lock as a replacement.” I didn’t ask for details on the cable lock, since
there’s not a chance I’m going to do that. (What would I use in the meantime?
I’d have to buy a lock in any case.) But if others are interested, the address
is:
Bell Sports Customer Service
1924 County Road, 3000 North
Rantoul IL 61866-9512
Giudi W.
Short shorts
September 23, 2004
I enjoy long bike rides near my cottage on the Michigan shore. My question
has to do with a cycling apparel problem. For comfort's sake, I wear very short
pants while cycling. Being a virile man, sometimes it is difficult to balance
the comfort of short shorts with exposure issues.
I would appreciate any tips or tricks you may have to
offer to ease my dilemma.
Major Delay
Major:
You might
get the exposure you crave and the protection you need with a product I like,
Hotskins
Short Shorts. They leave the skin uncovered but don’t ride up while
bicycling, providing embarrassment-free comfort.
Also, you might find further inspiration in these lyrics
to the 1958 tune “Short Shorts” by the Royal Teens:
Who wears short shorts
We wear short shorts
They're such short shorts
We like short shorts
Who wears short shorts
We wear short shorts.
[Repeat 2 more times]
Mr Bike
What kind of front basket to buy?
October 30, 2004
How do I learn what different types of baskets are available and which are
suitable for what type of carrying? I ride a Schwinn Sierra, size 15, ladies. Thanks for your help.
Mary P.
Mary:
First, consider
how the basket attaches. Some baskets hook on very simply with no installation;
they use either hooks (for easy lift-off) or straps. You might want such a basket
if you plan to use it only occasionally, and you’ll remove it after each
use to avoid theft when you park your bike unattended. (Note, tho, that you
can get some hardware to permanently attach any basket.)
Otherwise you can get a basket that uses hardware to attach to the handlebars
and (in some cases) the front axle. Such a basket resists theft and you always
have it when you need it.
Next issue: Wicker or metal?
- Wicker looks nicer and lets you carry breakables (like glass bottles) more easily.
- Metal baskets will better resist the elements. To protect breakables you can
put a foam pad at the bottom of the basket or line the basket with a blanket
or towel.
I recommend you consider several manufacturers’ products as follows. Some
you can get directly; for others you should ask a local bicycle dealer to order
for you.
- Cynthia’s Twigs, 888/404-1444, www.cynthiastwigs.com:
Two styles of high-quality wicker baskets with no permanent attachments.
- Pyramid: Distributes an inexpensive wicker basket (item #203941). If your bike
dealer stocks Pyramid products, ask to see a picture in the catalog.
- Topeak: Distributes an inexpensive steel basket (item #167176). If your bike
dealer stocks Topeak products, ask to see a picture in the catalog.
- Wald: Has a large selection of metal baskets and hardware; ask your bike
dealer to order. See Wald’s catalog at www.waldllc.com/catalog.html.
- Ashwood Basket Corp.: I don’t know their products well, but they seem to
have a New England niche. Contact ‘em at 800/463-6233 (375 Union St., Peterborough
NH 03458).
Mr Bike
When police kick you off the road
December 1, 2004
I have been reading what you have to say about cycling
on streets. Where I live is the country, we have roads not streets. I avoid
cities, too many red lights, I stop for every one.
I have been riding according to the Pennsylvania bicycle
drivers manual for years. The local police don’t want me to ride as a motorist
would. If a car comes up behind me, they want me off the road, if I don’t, motorists
just stack up behind me. Only some will pass.
I have been in front of the magistrate every year for
something for the past 15 years. No matter if I bike on a major thoroughfare
(like the road I live on) or on an asphalt-covered path through the woods, I
keep getting citations. I usually get them for "vehicle proceeding slower
than prevailing speed." Once, when I didn’t stay pulled over when a cop
told me he was taking my bike, I was charged with "fleeing and eluding
police."
The last time I was in court, I had gotten five citations
all for the same thing, doing what the law says I can do. Have you ever heard
of anything like this? I have been contacting bicycle advocacy groups for years.
Thank you.
Brad M.
Brad:
When situations
persist for years, sometimes the people involved find it difficult to change.
I’ve a suggestion nonetheless.
You could try asking a local police official to meet
with you. You’d want someone high up enough in the agency (e.g., watch
commander, deputy chief) who can affect what the patrol-level officers do. At
that meeting, you could have the goal of learning how and where the police think
you should ride your bike on specific roads—given that the law says you have
the right to ride on them.
It seems to me that it’d help to have an uninvolved
third party accompany you to this meeting. I suggest an advocate who not only
understands bicyclists’ rights but has worked successfully with police.
You don’t say what advocacy groups you’ve contacted, but you might
try Bike Pittsburgh and
the
.
Finally, keep in mind that non-bicyclists (including police) often have
a hard time understanding that bicycle riders have a right to the road, so they
need our help to get educated. I find traffic situations a bad place to deliver
this education—so it serves you better to deliver the message in a meeting
or class.
Good luck.
Mr Bike
Who invented armored cable?
December 6, 2004
I called an invention help line about one and a half
years ago about a lock design very similar to armored cable. Today’s armored
cables could just be based on my design.
If you ask me, armored cable beats a chain due to the
thickness and high strength of the outer shell. If today’s cables are similar
to my design, I would estimate the cutting resistance to be equivalent to 3/4"
hardened steel, and it would have the pull resistance of 3/4" cable—and
still be relatively light but nearly indestructible.
If what I say is accurate then I have put bike thieves
at a great loss even if I never profit from the design. But I would like to
know if I should take credit for it.
Tom S.
Tom:
The lock industry
has had armored cables for a lot longer than 1.5 years; I’d guess at least
ten.
To learn more about the origins of armored cable I suggest
you contact lock manufacturers who’ve made them for a long time. Try Master
Lock (Wisconsin), 800/558-5528 and Kryptonite
(Massachusetts), 800/729-5625.
Mr Bike
Jamming of OnGuard locks
December 8, 2004
I have a problem with my new OnGuard U lock. On several
occasions, the tumblers have gotten out of sync and it has taken quite a while
to get them straightened out to use the key. This could be because the tumblers
on top move easily and get jostled or they twist
when I remove the key. One of my coworkers has had this same problem.
The tumbler mechanism is often hard to turn. Unlike other locks that have only
one way to put on the crossbar (or they don't go on), the OnGuard can go on
either way. However, the key seems only to work on one of the ways.
Rob S.
Rob:
According to the manufacturer, an OnGuard user will
encounter this problem if (a) they don’t insert their key all the way into
the lock before turning it, or (b) they remove their key before turning it to
the starting position.
The manufacturer says that all of their locks come with a label next to the
keyhole. The label tells you how to insert and turn the key correctly. Apparently
your lock doesn’t have this label, so the manufacturer will resolve this
with you directly.
If you’ve jammed up your lock by inserting or removing the key improperly,
you can (as you’ve learned) make it right by putting the key part-way into
the keyhole and using it to turn the little slots inside the keyhole so they
line up.
Mr Bike
Which light to prevent nighttime cut-offs?
January 1, 2005
Hey there, Mr. Bike. I'm a long-time fan, first-time
caller.
After perusing your site, I realized I might be able
to get the answer to this question from your book, but since it's New Year's
Day and I don't believe in supporting businesses that make people work on holidays,
I figured I'd e-mail you today and look for the book tomorrow. (Not working
today applies to you, too, so I don't expect a reply for a few days.)
Anyway, here's the question: For commuting in Chicago
at night (I use my bike as a primary means of getting around), I have lots of
reflective material on both me and the bike, along with blinking LEDs in back
and in front ($30 CatEye with 3 white focused LEDs). However, as visible as
that makes me from most angles, I'm still concerned about cars that suddenly
swerve into the bike lane, whether trying to get around left-turning vehicles
or just to use it as another lane. I've had a couple of near misses biking to
and from the Loop on Halsted, especially at rush hour where cars are lined up
for blocks due to congestion.
So what I'd like to do is mount some sort of headlight
that will really get a driver's attention in the right hand mirror. Is there
a particular model that you might recommend? Are halogen lights (like those
5-10 watt rechargable "water bottle size battery" dealies) better
for this purpose than LEDs?
Although LEDs are bright if focused dead on, I'm thinking
they don't have as much spread. Money isn't as important as my safety, so I'm
willing to invest in something more expensive if necessary.
And thanks for helping to make Chicago such a great
place to commute by bike.
Mike M.
Mike:
Working on New Year’s Day doesn’t seem so
bad when you consider that Mr Bike’s union pays triple-time for holidays.
Holidays notwithstanding, it sounds to me like you’ve gotten pretty well
lit. I think your main challenge lies with getting your light in a motorist’s
eyes from behind. This involves not just brightness, but, as you sagely surmise, direction.
Yes, one of those $300 set-ups will give you the equivalent
of a car headlight, which should get most motorists’ attention. (See my
book, presuming you’ve got it by now, for a DIY recipe). But Mr Bike
likes cheap and easy solutions, and I’ve got two.
First, mount a light on your helmet so you can aim it at motorists’ rearview
and sideview mirrors. My friend and advisor Bike Freeek just got himself one
of those headband camping lights for $15 at Menard’s, and it really does
the trick for brightness and direction.
Alternatively, if you don’t want the bother of
figuring out where to point your light, try a bright,
omnidirectional strobe. The marine industry has had these longer than they’ve
had sonar, meaning you can get ‘em cheap and waterproof. Strap one these
babies on your helmet or upper arm, and that driver will think twice before
cutting off what looks like a yacht.
Mr Bike
IDing your bike: going beyond registration
January 28, 2005
Motivated by the frustration of a few recent bike theft
reports in my city, I found a few minutes and started a Web-based stolen-bike registry.
Our inspiring bike community is all about taking action rather than complaining
or waiting for someone else to solve your problems. In
that spirit please help me grow this page into something useful, and
let's see if we can get a few bikes returned to their owners.
Got any advice for me?
Howard K.
Howard:
While I find your registry a laudable grassroots effort,
nothing prevents me from finding your bike parked on the street, copying down
its serial number, going to your Web site, and registering your bike as my own.
Next I wait till I see you riding your bike, grab a cop, and (as happened to
my uncle Eddy as a teen) falsely accuse you of taking the bike that I can
prove belongs to me.
So I’ve a very strong recommendation for all bike
owners, especially anyone who thinks they might someday use your site: Install
in your bike incontrovertible
evidence of your ownership. Write your name, address, and phone number on a
card, seal it in a plastic bag, and stick it inside the handlebars or seat post
tube. That way, if you happen across someone on your stolen bike, you can likely
prove your ownership on the spot.
I’ve gathered some other clever ideas for IDing
your bike, and they appear in the "Avoiding Rip-Off" chapter of my
book.
Mr Bike
Annual cost to maintain a mountain bike
February 6, 2005
Hi there. I have been cycling for quite a while.
I’ve organized a budget sheet for myself and I want to know how much is
considered reasonable to spend each year on my mountain bike.
I can do basic stuff like change break pads, cables, etc.
I would be grateful for any info.
Andrew F.
Andrew:
If that mountain bike sits indoors all year, zero. A
dumb joke, I admit—but it illustrates an important point: How much you
spend annually on maintenance depends directly on how and how much you use it.
But I can give you some guidance.
Some people use their mountain bikes for recreational,
off-road cycling and nothing else. Others use mountain bikes for transportation—cuz
mountain bikes have wide tires that forgive the sharp objects and bumps endemic to urban and suburban roads.
Let’s say you use that bike for transportation.
According to one
bicycling fact source, the typical annual cost to operate a bicycle for
the average commuter falls between $20 and $300. To narrow that down, take the
example of some folks who ride their mountain bikes for transportation and push
them hard: bicycling police officers in a suburb of Dallas, Texas. They say
they spend an average of $100 annually per bicycle on maintenance.
(Your e-mail address implies that you live outside the
U.S.; to convert from the U.S. currency amounts I’ve presented click
here.)
If you use that mountain bike purely for recreation,
I’ve got another way to help decide on a budget: Figure your annual disposable
income (what you don’t need for food, housing, and other such necessities).
Then write down everything else you want to spend money on, like bicycling,
motion pictures, and fact-finding trips to the U.S. Prioritize these items,
then divvy up the money.
And if you don’t use your mountain bike
for transportation, I suggest you think about it. With the right
accessories you can replace many expensive motor-vehicle trips with cheap
bike trips. With the money you’d save you’d have plenty more to spend
on your bike.
Mr Bike
Potential problems from removing a front derailleur
February 23, 2005
Greetings. I would love to get rid of my front derailleur
on my urban Kona Smoke and just run a single cog at the front with a chain guard;
I saw some ready-made bikes set up like that. However I was told that if I do
that my chain would constantly be slipping, especially when riding on uneven
surfaces. Is it so? Many thanks.
Konstantine B.
Konstantine:
Feelin’ lucky? You could just try it and see what
happens. The chain just might stay on the front gear, which in bike-biz jargon
we call the chainring. (The chainrings connects to the crank, the thing to which
the pedals attach.)
First, tho, let’s consider: Should you remove the
chainrings that you don’t plan to use? You could just leave them all on,
put the chain onto the one you want to use, and let ‘er rip.
But which chainring do you put the chain on? For a crank
with three chainrings, most people would opt for the middle gear to avoid a
bending chain, which I’ll get to in a minute. With a two-gear chainring,
for longevity I’d go with the outer gear cuz the inner, smaller gear will
wear more quickly, seeing as it has fewer teeth.
Now, then. If your luck doesn’t hold and the chain
drops off the chainring, you’ve options:
1. Leave off the shift lever and cable, but put
the front derailleur back on. Adjust
the set screws (sometimes called the adjustment bolts) so that the
derailleur keeps the chain centered on the chainring but doesn’t
rub on the chain when you’ve got the chain on the middle rear gear
(jargon: cog).
2. Install a chainring protector or guard, sometimes
called a rock ring. This plastic or aluminum ring sits right next to the chainring,
far enough way so the chain doesn’t rub on it. Manufacturers originally
intended such a gizmo to protect a mountain bike’s chainring from rocks—but
it has the added benefit of keeping the chain from dropping off on whatever
side of the chainring you have it installed. A clever mechanic could rig a chainring
guard on both sides of the chainring—sort of sandwiching it so the chain
doesn’t fall off on either side. (Note that some cranks come with an outer
guard already attached.) If you’ve left the unneeded chainrings on the
crank, you might have to remove one or two of ‘em to make room for the
chainring guard.
3. Install a device called a chain watcher or keeper
(brand names: 3rd Eye, Deda). It attaches to the seat tube on the inner side
of the chainring, and keeps the chain from falling off on that side only. You
could use it in combo with an outside chainring guard, which I suspect would
make for an easier overall installation.
One more thing: Using only one chainring in front could
cause what the jargonites call "acute chain line angle." Imagine the
chain on the inside chainring in the front, and the outside cog in the back.
In this case the sideways angle into which the chain has gotten bent can cause
it to grind the teeth of the chainring, wearing them down. If your bike has
an aluminum or alloy chainring (not uncommon), that wear can happen pretty quickly.
(Old five-speed bikes didn’t fall prey to acute chain line angle, apparently,
cuz they made ‘em with the cogs closer together.)
What to do? Depending on a bunch of stuff—which
chainring you have the chain on, the horizontal position of the chainring, how
often you use the inner or outer cogs, and what kind of chain you have—you
might not have a problem. Just in case, tho, you might wanna make sure you’ve
got a steel chainring, which will hold up much better to this sort of punishment,
titanium even more so.
Mr Bike
On a tandem, which rider signals?
March 11, 2005
When riding a tandem, which rider (front or back) does
the hand signals for turns and stops? Thanks.
Nancy G.
Nancy:
Experienced tandemites will tell you that a satisfying
tandem ride requires good communication between partners.
That said, let’s first explore who most logically
should do the hand signals: the front rider (AKA captain, pilot, or driver)
or the rear rider (AKA stoker or rear admiral). Because the captain makes most
of the decisions about turning and slowing based on what they can see to the
front, it makes sense that the captain has ultimate responsibility for signaling.
But, as I say, good tandeming results from teamwork.
Let me illustrate. Say you and I go for a tandem ride with you piloting and
me stoking, with some other bikers tagging along behind. We get going at a pretty
good clip, when, suddenly, you see a child about to dart into the street from
the sidewalk. As you use both hands for the brake levers you say to me, "Slowing!
Please signal!" At which point I give the "slow" arm signal to
the riders behind me.
The lesson: In some situations that require signaling
the captain needs both hands to control the bike, so they rightly take advantage
of the stoker’s hands to signal—but to do so captains must communicate
their wishes. On the other hand many couples find that, after tandeming together
for a long time, they have to speak far less often to relay their intents.
What if the captain signals? Should the stoker also
signal, if the latter doesn’t need that hand otherwise? I say, why not?
In certain cases—such as signaling a right turn using the right arm—it
helps make the signal more visible to motorists positioned to the tandem’s
left.
You might like, as I do, the thread about communicating
at the Bike
Forum site.
Mr Bike
How to transport a quadracycle?
March 31, 2005
I'm buying a Rhoades Car—a 4-wheel, 150-pound,
9-foot long "bike." I’m picking it up to save a couple
hundred bucks on shipping, save time, and reduce the chance of it getting
damaged in shipping.
I know it would fit in my 5 x 8 trailer but that
means it’ll bounce around the trailer for several days. And keeping
it on a utility trailer for several days seems a bit of a theft risk and
a potential parking problem.
I have a couple of other options in mind to transport
this thing—put it inside my Suburban, or put it on top of my '95
Astro Van—but there seems no way to know what is best.
Any advice would be much-appreciated!
Richard H.
Richard:
Believe it or not, I have had to haul a heavier
cousin of the Rhoades Car. Actually, two of them at the same time. Twice.
(All in the interest of educating
motorists about bike riders.)
I only borrowed the things, so I rented a
truck. Cost might prohibit that option for you, as your pick-up involves
a multi-day trip.
The manufacturer very definitely discourages
putting their fine product on top of any passenger-class motor vehicle.
Something about roofs caving in, quadracycles bouncing down the highway,
and the like.
It sounds like your only problem with an otherwise
perfect solution, the 5 by 8 trailer, has to do with theft—which
you can remedy easily with a lock or two. Get a high-security chain, like
the ones available from OnGuard,
and lock the quad to your trailer. On the road, when you park for the
night, put the chain thru the trailer’s wheel. To avoid bounce bring
a bunch of strong bungies to lash the quad down.
And, unless you plan to stop overnight in Manhattan,
you will find a place to park. Ask anyone who’s driven cross-country
in a moving van with a car towed behind. (Like, uh, me—before my
car-free days.)
Mr Bike
Heavy rider breaks the seat
April 6, 2005
I had a custom fit done on my new Specialized
Hardrock Comp XXL (I'm 6'5", 235 pounds), and part of this custom
fit was pushing the saddle as far back as it could go, making the seatpost
clamp go to the very front part of the saddle’s rails. After I bent
the rails on the saddle that came with the bike, I put another saddle
on, and I had bent the rails again in a couple of days, and then one of
the rails actually broke as well.
Today the bike shop gave me a new saddle embossed
with the words "Liberator Ti Race." The salesman assured me
that titanium rails would hold up. I'm not sure I'm going to be comfortable
with this new saddle, however; I much prefer "comfort" saddles.
I just bought a new Body Geometry Comfort Plus saddle, which I'm very
used to and love, but I'm afraid to put it on the bike for fear of bending
and/or breaking the rails.
I know I could adjust the saddle to position the seatpost
clamp in the middle part of the rails, but then I would lose the geometric
adjustments done as part of my "custom fit" (and this fit has
made me feel better than I ever have on a bike). I could also get a seatpost
with more of a "layback" to the clamp, but I don't believe they
make extended-layback seatposts with shocks.
One mechanic suggested getting a seatpost with
a longer clamp on top, but would adding just a fraction of an inch to
this really make a difference? Any suggestions you have would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Martin R.
Martin:
I like to say that the more hardware you use to
fix a problem, the more problems you end up with later.
Unfortunately, to address your problem’s
three parameters—setback, strength, and cushion—I’ve had
to create a real Frankenstein monster of seat configurations. I think
it’ll work, but the villagers might riot.
First, to get the seat back far enough we need
a laybacked seat post. A couple suspension posts—such as Post
Moderne’s Bracer—do have minor laybacks, but I presume you
need something more dramatic, like a curved
seat post.
Next, we need a way to grab the seat’s rails
in the right spot so you can use non-titanium rails without bending ‘em.
This we can do with a device made by M2Racer called the Power
Module—which basically lets you slide a seat back and forth without
moving the seat post clamp.
Last, you need that cush. I suggest you try a
leather Brooks
spring saddle. The combination of leather (conforms to your sit bones)
and springs gives you both comfort and suspension.
You could start out using your Body Geometry seat
instead of the Brooks saddle, but you might miss the suspension. You might
not.
Mr Bike
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